Neocities.org
I think it’s weird when people tell people new to coding to use a template to start learning. Maybe it’s just me, but understanding what you’ve written yourself is x10 easier than reading someone else’s code, especially when you have just started out.
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Plus you barely need to know any tags to make a nice site. Nothing is easier than drawing your layout in MS paint with some blank boxes, make it the site bg & fill the blanks with absolute-positioned boxes. I think making your site from scratch makes you learn faster too.