Neocities.org
I've slept on it and looked more into things and I think, for now, I'll be sticking around on neocities. The blog post is a year old, the landscape of ai has changed since then (in a bad way) but I'll hold off until/if he comments on the current state of things.
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The way everyone was leaving, I'd been worried the site had been sold or he'd made some announcement about incorporating ai! Really spooked me